In Praise of Braising

An age-old method is a home-cooking trend today

Braising not only produces the warming, comforting foods we love to eat in winter, but it is also an economical technique that is important for today’s home cooks. An age-old method of tenderizing meat and game, it is still a classic way to cook pork, lamb, beef, poultry, and vegetables. Inexpensive cuts of meat are made impressively complex in flavor and meltingly tender. In fact, braising transforms tough cuts of meat. The more sinewy the meat is to begin with, the more tender it will become. The sauce will be thicker and silkier, too.

The Alchemy of Braising

Chewier cuts of meat are riddled with connective tissue that contains collagen. Braising dissolves the collagen into gelatin, which is what makes the meat melt in your mouth. Long, slow, moist heat is required to melt and convert the collagen. The gelatin is also what turns the cooking liquid into a shiny, thickened sauce. The meat has a richer taste and the clinging sauce is concentrated in flavor.

The Technique

Much of the depth of flavor comes from the first key step in braising: proper browning in fat before the liquid is added. This critical start caramelizes the surfaces of the meat, and begins building the layers of taste in the braised dish. Take your time and sear all the sides of the meat until they are a dark golden brown. Before searing, lightly coat fatty cuts of meat (such as short ribs) with flour to make a crust that will seal in juices. Leaner cuts need to be patted dry before browning.

Place the pot over the heat and let it get hot before you add the oil. Pour in the oil, enough to coat the bottom of the pot, and let it heat until it is hot, but not smoking. To test it, touch a corner of the meat to the oil and listen for a sizzle. Do not crowd the pot when you sear. If your meat is cut into several pieces, you will want to brown them in batches to make sure they brown and not steam.

After browning, you are through with high heat. At that point, aromatic liquid is added and the covered pot goes into a low oven between 275 degrees and 325 degrees F. The braised dish should be cooked gently and at a constant temperature, keeping the liquid just below a simmer. If the liquid is too hot, it can shrink or toughen the muscle fibers. You can braise on the stovetop, but those cooking temperatures are not as reliable as the consistency of the oven.

The Braising Pot

The most important piece of equipment is a heavy pot with a tight-fitting lid. A heavy pot ensures the dish will cook evenly.

A Dutch oven is a good choice; it should be deep enough to hold a large piece of meat, leaving about 2 inches of room at the top and around the sides for aromatic moisture to bathe the meat. That size gives you enough room to sear the meat, as well. There are also low-sided pots made specifically for braising (braisers).

Enamel-coated cast iron provides the most even heat. An unlined cast iron or heavy, aluminum pot will work, too, but their surfaces will react with very acidic ingredients and alter the taste of the dish.

You can use earthenware, ceramic, or glass for braising in the oven, but you cannot sear the meat in them on top of the stove. However, you can use a heavy skillet for the browning step, transferring the meat to the braising pot. Be sure to cook a little of the liquid in the skillet before adding it to the pot, and scrape up the browned, clinging bits from the bottom to flavor the sauce.

A Perfect Dinner Solution

Most of the time, a braised dish tastes better a day or two after cooking. So you can make it on the weekend and serve it during the week, after the flavors have had a chance to blend and deepen. It is easier to spoon off the fat that rises to the surface, too.

Even if you are busy, the braised recipe basically cooks by itself after you get it into the oven, freeing you up for other tasks. And it is a dinner party solution; while the entrée simmers in the oven, you can attend to the other parts of the meal.